This was the first stop of our 75-day trip from Hokkaido all the way down to Okinawa. Our Hokkaido road trip itinerary covered 8 days and 7 nights, starting from New Chitose Airport and heading south through Otaru, Lake Toya, Hakodate, and Noboribetsu, before looping back to New Chitose to catch a flight to Sendai. We drove around 1,000 kilometres in total. The landscapes were stunning, and we discovered several family-friendly attractions and accommodation options along the way.
This post will share our full Hokkaido road trip itinerary day by day, including where we stayed, recommended places to visit, actual costs, and how our kids adjusted to the journey. For more detailed daily updates, check out the photo albums on our Facebook page and Instagram Highlights!
Day 1: Arrival in Hokkaido – Stay near New Chitose Airport

We took a bus to the hotel on the first day and picked up the rental car the next morning.
We arrived in the afternoon at New Chitose Airport. To avoid tiring the kids out, we stayed near the airport on our first night at Minn Chitose. This modern apartment-style accommodation had spacious and comfortable rooms, a small kitchen, and a washing machine—perfect for families. The only downside was its slightly remote location, with limited dining options nearby. We ended up ordering takeaway for dinner.

Built in 2020, this fully automated apartment hotel is clean and has very spacious rooms.
Accommodation: Minn Chitose
https://maps.app.goo.gl/rHLS1RQE95szFWzG6
Cost: ¥11,000 per night (booked via Booking.com)
Day 2: Hokkaido Road Trip Begins – Heading to Otaru
In the morning, we picked up our rental car from Car Rental Hokkaido. We chose a Suzuki Solio for 7 days at ¥43,000, which included 2 child car seats—perfect for our family of 4. The boot could fit two 29-inch suitcases and a stroller. A full tank cost under ¥5,000, which was great value.

Couldn’t believe the smallest and cheapest car we rented still fit all our luggage.
The car rental staff recommended we visit the famous Hokkaido dessert café LeTao for lunch. We arrived 10 minutes before opening and were already number 11 in line. The snow crab pasta with crab miso sauce had such a rich flavour and was absolutely delicious—and only ¥1,860!

Snow crab pasta with crab miso at LeTao—amazing flavour!
But their famous “soufflé-like fluffy pancakes” had a wait time of almost an hour! We watched from the window as the chefs discarded any pancakes that weren’t perfectly shaped—no wonder it took so long. Because of that, we skipped it later when we visited Otaru again.

The famous LeTao pancakes we waited ages for.
Restaurant: Doremo LeTAO
https://maps.app.goo.gl/13DBBs4uUrJTzj7b6
Next, we made a stop at Shiroi Koibito Park in Sapporo. Although it was raining, the building’s fairytale-like appearance was still lovely. Entry was free—only parking fees applied—so it was a nice quick stop for photos.

Shiroi Koibito Park in Sapporo—perfect for photos even in the rain.
In the afternoon, we drove to Otaru and checked into Cozy Inn Otaru, located about 1 kilometre from the canal. The hotel was spacious, clean, and modern. It included free parking, and we were allowed to leave the car even after check-out, which made it a great pick for road trippers.

Our room was spacious and affordable. A bit far from the canal, but worth it.
Accommodation: Cozy Inn Otaru
https://maps.app.goo.gl/PPLexynHEs5WTiEV8
Cost: ¥8,200 per night (booked via Booking.com)
Day 3|Otaru Canal Stroll & Lake Tōya Sunset
We arrived in Otaru last night, dropped off our luggage, and immediately went out to eat
Otaru Canal is especially romantic at night.
Hokkaido Curry|Crazy Spice Otaru Main Store
I came here five years ago and still love it today! The interior has a Southeast Asian vibe, and there’s floor seating — perfect for families with babies. Xena had fun crawling around while we ate. I ordered the pork curry and added shrimp paste and extra vegetables — flavorful, veggie-loaded, and super satisfying. This is the original store, but they have several branches in Sapporo as well.

We started our morning with a walk along the canal. Otaru was always meant to be our “slow-paced” stop on this Hokkaido road trip — and we really embraced it today. No rush, just wandering wherever looked interesting.

Uni Ice Cream|うにLABO HACHI
A fun little discovery — a sea urchin specialty shop! We tried the uni ice cream, which came topped with actual sea urchin and two crispy seaweed crackers. The soft-serve had a light, savory twist. They also serve uni rice bowls that looked amazing.

Uni & Seafood Bowls|すし耕
Just a short walk from Otaru Canal, I actually ate here five years ago too! The storefront looks big, but inside it’s just two small tables and a counter. We were lucky to get seats. We ordered a seafood don, a uni & salmon roe don, grilled salmon, and a sushi plate for the kids. In my opinion, the seafood don was the better value — more variety and better overall experience, even though both bowls cost ¥5000.

Maybe because we had too much uni back in Australia, I don’t crave it as much now. Honestly, I couldn’t tell a huge difference between Australian and Japanese uni (besides size). Google reviews say it’s a bit overpriced, so it really depends on your budget.

♀️ Former Temiya Railway Walk
Aside from the canal, our favorite part of Otaru was the Former Temiya Railway — one of Hokkaido’s earliest railways, now turned into a walking path. Zara kept balancing on the tracks, falling and getting back up — she loved it.

This kind of laid-back travel is exactly what we hoped for — no rush, just good food and simple fun in small towns.
Driving to Lake Tōya
After Otaru, we drove to Lake Tōya (about 2 hours). The scenery slowly shifted from city to mountains and forests. Near the end of the drive, we saw a viewpoint and decided to stop — and what a good call! It was the Lake Tōya Observation Point, and we arrived right at sunset

Hotel Cocoa
We stayed at Hotel Cocoa — one of our favourite hotels on this trip! Big, clean room, an amazing bathroom, and every room has a view of the lake. The only downside: no restaurants or convenience stores nearby, just a vending machine with light snacks. Good thing we had food in the car

The next morning while feeding the baby, I saw the sunrise from our window — one of the most magical moments of the trip. Way more breathtaking than the viewpoint from the night before.

Still not sure which is better — a first-floor room with outdoor access, or an upper-floor room with a wide lake view

After checking out, we went to the second-floor tea lounge and had our breakfast there with the same view. The sunlight was intense though, so we didn’t stay long

Hotel Cocoa
Google Maps
¥13,200/night (booked via Booking.com)
Day 4: Lake Hill Farm Playtime + Long Drive to Hakodate
We arrived at Lake Tōya in November, which happened to be a quiet period between seasons. Many activities had ended by the end of October, and the next round wouldn’t start until December. The overall atmosphere was much more tranquil than we expected.
The steamboat on Lake Tōya really looks cool.
After checking out in the morning, we headed to Lake Hill Farm, a popular farm restaurant in Hokkaido known for its ice cream. The farm has large fields with free balls to play with, and the kids had a blast running around.
When in Hokkaido, ice cream every day is a must! But I think their cheese flavour is even better~
We casually ordered milk and cream cheese flavours. Honestly, the milk ice cream was a bit plain, but the cream cheese was rich and smooth. What really surprised us, though, was their stringy cheese. It had a savory, chewy texture, and both adults and kids couldn’t stop eating it. We ended up buying two packs right there. The cream puffs they sold nearby were also well-received — crispy on the outside with just the right amount of sweetness inside. As for one of the shop’s signature items, the milk pie, I found it a little too sweet for my taste.
After all this food, I still think their cheese is the best!
Of course, no farm is complete without animals. On the field behind, there was a goat named Yuki. If there were too many people, it would hide in its little red house. When we were there, it was in the house, and we only saw the mountain behind it, which resembled the shape of Mt. Fuji. Unfortunately, the mountaintop was covered by clouds, but it must look spectacular when the weather is clear.
There was a goat behind the farm, perfect for photo ops, but it was napping.
Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/P7Hi4i9wKStUQ45N8
We then started the longer drive to Hakodate, which took about two and a half hours from Lake Tōya. The drive took us through a mix of mountainous roads and urban areas, but the traffic was smooth. We even stopped at a roadside convenience store to rest and grab some snacks for the road.
The drive from Lake Tōya to Hakodate took about two and a half hours.
We checked in at Comfort Hotel Hakodate, an affordable business hotel that included breakfast. The room was about 25 square meters, which was just enough for us with the kids. The hotel was conveniently located right across from JR Hakodate Station, and we could walk to the Hakodate Morning Market. The parking lot was cheap (¥550/day, and you could come and go as needed).
Our stay at the Comfort Hotel Hakodate was quite comfortable.
Accommodation: Comfort Hotel Hakodate
Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/kMHvCVpcjpwjwUeU6
Cost: ¥20,300 for two nights (booked via Booking.com)
Day 5: A Relaxing Day in Hakodate & A Seafood Donburi Loved by Kids
One of the highlights of our trip to Hakodate, of course, was the seafood! The famous Hakodate Morning Market was right near where we were staying, and no matter the weather, we pushed two strollers there, ready to feast.

There were too many people fishing for squid, so we used a net to catch them.
The most famous thing here, of course, is catching squid. However, due to the long lines, we chose another shop where we used a net to catch squid. The owner then freshly sliced the squid into sashimi, which we enjoyed inside. While we missed capturing the exciting footage, the experience was still very fun. If you visit Hakodate Morning Market, don’t forget to try this shop, Haruki Shoten Asahi Hiroba Store, where the seafood is fresh and delicious.

Delicious squid sashimi.
Haruki Shoten Asahi Hiroba Store Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/QDgPUPYhgyrUW5Fq9
In addition to squid, we also tried Hakodate’s signature squid rice. At Kanedai Araki Shoten, we spent 900 yen for grilled squid rice. The wait was a bit long, but the grilled squid itself was very tasty, although we were a bit disappointed by the soy sauce rice inside. If you’re interested in trying this unique dish, you might want to give it a try. The shop is very popular, and many locals frequent it.

Hakodate’s specialty squid rice!
Kanedai Araki Shoten Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/1DsxFL3WLmfsczXr7
Additionally, we tried the seafood donburi at Kikuyo Shokudo. The price here is relatively inexpensive, with a bowl of seafood donburi costing only 2,500 yen. The service was very thoughtful, with the staff providing a high chair for our child and taking good care of us. While the quality of the seafood donburi was a bit ordinary, the price and service made it feel heartwarming.

A seafood donburi from the fish market, around ¥2500, though I thought it was a bit small.
Kikuyo Shokudo Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/FMEujVBANvm3mpZDA
At Hakodate Morning Market, we also met a crab vendor who played with our daughter Zara. However, for us, who are already used to eating crab at home, it didn’t seem too exciting.

The vendor kept entertaining Zara and even let her touch a crab, but we still didn’t buy any because eating crab with them is so tiring!
After lunch, we decided to visit Hachiman-zaka, a steep slope with an elevation of 38 meters and a length of 270 meters, which has been the filming location for many Japanese dramas. Despite the bad weather, we still challenged ourselves to climb it, with my husband pushing both strollers up by himself, which was truly impressive.

The crazy person pushing two strollers up Hachiman-zaka. It would look even better on a sunny day!
Next, we headed to Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, a place filled with shops, perfect for taking photos.

The maple leaves outside the Meiji-kan are so beautiful.
But for us, with kids in tow, the most enjoyable part was heading back to the supermarket AEON to get some affordable sushi. The sushi here tasted better than the ones we had at the market, and for just 550 yen, we got 12 pieces of sushi – such a great deal. AEON also has a second floor for dining, where we could comfortably enjoy our meal, unlike the first time when we just ate with our hands.

The most fun part this time was AEON supermarket sushi. I think it’s even better than what we had at the fish market! Of course, I’m not a professional!
All in all, even though our kids are a bit picky, it was a fulfilling and delicious day. If you visit Hakodate, don’t miss the Hakodate Morning Market and AEON for great food!
♨️ Day 6: Heading to Noboribetsu, Staying at a Heartwarming Airbnb in Shiraoi Town
The next morning, after checking out, we drove up to Mount Hakodate. Mount Hakodate has traffic restrictions from 4 PM to 9 PM, so no self-driving is allowed during that time. It’s one of Japan’s top three night views, but since it’s usually crowded with people at sunset, we decided to visit during the day. There were almost no people at the observation deck, and we were lucky to enjoy the view all to ourselves!
At night, this is one of Japan’s top three night views!
Next, we drove for about three hours toward Noboribetsu, and along the way, the rest areas had beautiful scenery and tasty food. Since accommodations in Noboribetsu are expensive, we decided to stay in the nearby Shiraoi Town, and this Airbnb turned out to be the most heartwarming place we’ve stayed at so far.
It’s been a long time since we stayed at such a warm place!
In recent years, Airbnb has become quite commercialized, and it’s rare to find hosts who genuinely care for their guests like they did in the past. But the host at this Airbnb in Shiraoi Town truly moved us beyond words.
The living room here was so comfortable that we didn’t want to leave!
The young host, who loves surfing and skiing, walks his dog every day. He mentioned in his profile that he once had a two-second cameo in a movie and kicked a bear (although we didn’t meet him in person, he probably looks really cool?). What’s even more surprising is that he noticed we had children and, worried we wouldn’t have time to try local food, specially prepared bread from a nearby bakery for us. The attention to detail was truly heartwarming.
The host bought these breads for us because he thought we couldn’t go out for meals with kids.
My husband also particularly praised the kitchen design here, saying that he didn’t need to go to a restaurant and could simply pick fresh seafood at the supermarket to make a delicious meal. What’s even better is that the host had prepared plastic bags specifically for diapers – such thoughtful details are really hard to put into words.
The chef’s kitchen!
Additionally, the tatami mats here were incredibly comfortable, allowing us to fully appreciate the cozy, traditional Japanese atmosphere. If you’re willing to pay extra, you can also enjoy the sauna and outdoor barbecue facilities, though we didn’t get a chance to try them. While the photos on the website might not do justice to the place, the room’s ambience was quite relaxing and filled with a warm, Japanese charm that was visible in person.
The bathtub looks much cleaner in person than in the photo!
In conclusion, this was truly one of the best Airbnbs we’ve ever stayed in, and we were a bit reluctant to leave. Our stay here has left us with wonderful memories of Hokkaido.
This room was super cute.
Accommodation Link: Airbnb Link
Cost: ¥36,000 / Two nights
Day 7: Noboribetsu Marine Park Nixe
On the seventh day in Hokkaido, we finally arrived at a place that made my daughter’s eyes light up. As soon as she saw the castle at Noboribetsu Marine Park Nixe, she excitedly ran over and said, “This is my castle, and Elsa, Anna, Olaf, and the other characters are inside!” If you’re not familiar with these names, congratulations – you haven’t been brainwashed by Frozen yet.
The main castle of Noboribetsu Marine Park Nixe, and my daughter immediately fell in love with it.
We visited Nixe Marine Park mainly to see the penguin parade. Many people might associate penguin parades with Asahiyama Zoo in Hokkaido, but the penguins there only walk during winter (from late December to mid-March), while Nixe Marine Park has penguin parades all year round.
The main attraction here is the year-round penguin parade.
The park isn’t very large, but there are performances every half hour, such as sardine dances, dolphin shows, and sea lion performances. Even though the park is small, watching all the performances can easily take two to three hours. The castle itself has several levels of aquariums with different themes, allowing kids to touch starfish and small rays. There are also little steps so they can easily see the displays, which makes learning even more fun.
There are different performances at different times of the day.
Since my daughter hasn’t seen “Finding Nemo” yet, when she saw a tank full of clownfish, she didn’t say “Nemo,” but instead called them “clownfish.” This made my husband reflect on how today’s kids almost always call them Nemo.
This place is really small, but kids just love it – it’s quite strange.
Quick tip: If you’re planning to visit, be sure to check the show schedule on their official website, as performances mainly take place in the morning and afternoon, with no shows around noon. The entrance fee for the park is ¥3,000 (as of November 2024), and for me, I probably wouldn’t come unless it was for the kids. But the penguin parade is truly soothing to watch.
If you miss the penguin parade at Asahiyama Zoo, this is a great alternative in Hokkaido!
Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/4uq1Wiaf6yrBwv6z9
Klook Ticket Pre-purchase: Noboribetsu Marine Park Ticket
Day 8: Noboribetsu Jigokudani Valley & Departure from Hokkaido
On our last day in Hokkaido, we finally saw snow at Noboribetsu Jigokudani Valley! From the snow photos all over social media, we could tell that the scenery was stunning. We also managed to dodge a “crisis”—if it had snowed heavily, pushing the stroller would’ve been tricky. At first, the snowflakes fell rapidly, but eventually, they softened and blended beautifully with the orange-and-white landscape of the valley, giving a romantic vibe. However, if there weren’t any kids playing around, the surroundings would feel even more peaceful.
It snowed in Hokkaido! The kids saw snow for the first time!
The observation trail at Noboribetsu Jigokudani Valley is easy to walk, though a bit steep, so pushing a stroller might be inconvenient. My daughter treated the trail like a racetrack and ran off ahead. Luckily, it was not crowded at noon, and she fell a few times but got up laughing and kept running. I kept asking her if she smelled the sulphur in the air, but she always asked me why. At this point, I felt like I was having a repetitive conversation.
The air is filled with the smell of sulphur.
We then met a couple with photography gear, and they recommended we walk the other side of the trail, claiming the scenery would be very different. We decided to give it a try, but just a few steps in, my daughter wanted to sit down and rest, so we turned back. On our way back, we ran into the couple again, who smiled and said, “Good idea!” It seems our decision was the right one.
After the snow, the weather cleared up, and the trail was great for running.
There are many large demon statues around Noboribetsu Jigokudani Valley. When my daughter saw them, she got scared, so we didn’t explore much further. Since it was cold, we decided to head to Noboribetsu Onsen town for some food.
Large demon statues at Noboribetsu Jigokudani Valley.
We chose Dosanko Pudding, a cozy restaurant with a peaceful atmosphere and music from Studio Ghibli playing in the background—a very artsy vibe. The soup curry they served was a bit mild in flavour but had a lot of vegetables, which was perfect for us since we don’t get to eat many veggies in Japan.
The last soup curry before leaving Hokkaido, though it wasn’t that great.
What surprised us most was their pudding. We tried the pumpkin and black sesame flavours, and both were delicious. If you’re looking for a quiet place to eat, this is a great option.
The pudding was better than the curry!
Restaurant Info:
Dosanko Pudding [Pudding and Soup Curry Shop]
Google Maps
After our meal, we prepared to head to Sendai, which was about an hour and a half drive to the airport. The next part of our journey, the Tohoku road trip, awaits!
Hokkaido Road Trip Expenses (for four: 2 adults, 2 kids)
Category | Amount (JPY) |
---|---|
Accommodation | ¥89,000 |
Car Rental | ¥43,000 |
Gas | ¥10,000 |
ETC | ¥13,500 |
Parking Fees | ¥2,700 |
Laundry | ¥300 |
Attraction Fees | ¥6,000 |
Food and Drinks | ¥85,000 |
Total | ¥249,500 |
✨ Final Thoughts: Hokkaido Road Trip Was Worth It!
For our family of four, this Hokkaido road trip was worth it. Though driving was a bit tiring, the freedom and flexibility it gave us allowed us to visit many off-the-beaten-path places that were worth seeing. Plus, Japan’s well-organized roads, affordable gas, and parking made it perfect for family travel, and great for first-time road-trippers.
If you’re planning your own Hokkaido road trip, I hope this post gives you some useful insights. You can adjust the route and accommodation based on your pace. You don’t have to visit every attraction—take your time, enjoy the moment, and it’ll be great!
Accommodation List (including affiliate links)
The following are the accommodations we stayed at and found suitable for family road trips. Feel free to book through these affiliate links—there’s no extra cost to you, and it helps support us so we can continue sharing travel tips. Thank you for your support!
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Day 2|Cozy Inn Otaru – Otaru
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Day 6–7|Shiraoi Town Airbnb (no affiliate)
If you’re interested in more family-friendly travel routes and Japan road trip tips, feel free to follow my FB page or IG or leave a comment to connect!
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